My Journey to the World Championships of Shoemaking 2023
Hello, everyone. I’m Allan Donnelly, the founder and owner of Don's Footwear and The Last Shoemaker, We are a bespoke shoemaking company based in Thailand and York UK. In this blog post, I want to share with you my experience of participating in the World Championships of Shoemaking 2023, where I submitted a boot that came 21st out of 30 entries.
The World Championships of Shoemaking is an international contest organized by Shoegazing and The Shoe Snob, in collaboration with Kirby Allison the Youtuber and Master Shoemakers, the Bookywook, with support from Parker Schenecker (I met his brother back in 2022). It’s a prestigious event that showcases the best craftsmanship and creativity in the shoemaking industry. The final takes place during the London Super Trunk Show on May 13th, 2023, where the top three shoes go on a world tour and the winner receives £6,000.This year, for the first time, the contestants had to make a boot instead of a shoe. The theme was a balmoral boot in black, which is a classic and elegant style that can be worn with formal or casual outfits. The boot had to be made by hand using traditional methods and materials, and it had to demonstrate high quality, originality, and innovation.I decided to enter the competition again for the 3rd time because I love a challenge and I wanted to test my teams skills and learn from other shoemakers. I also wanted to represent Dons and The Last Shoemaker and show our passion and dedication to our craft. It was a long and stressful process, but also very rewarding and fun.I started by making the boot last, which was plastic form this time( that gives shape to the boot). I wanted to create a distinctive silhouette that would stand out from the rest. I chose a large toe box that gave the boot a 70’s glam look, inspired by rock stars like David Bowie and Mick Jagger. I also made the heel slightly higher than usual, to add some flair and attitude.Next, I designed the pattern, which is the paper template that determines how the leather pieces are cut and stitched together. I opted for a simple and sleek design that emphasized the balmoral line, which is the seam that runs along the ankle and separates the upper from the lower part of the boot. I also added some subtle details like broguing and medallion on the toe cap, to give some texture and contrast.Then, I handed over the last and the pattern to my staff in our factory of seven, who made the rest of the boot. They cut the leather pieces from high-quality black calf leather, skived them to reduce thickness, punched holes for stitching and lacing, assembled them with waxed linen thread, lasted them over the last with nails and glue, welted them with leather strips, attached them to a triple welt sole with wooden pegs, trimmed and sanded them to shape, stained them with black dye, polished them with wax and brushes, and finished them with metal toe taps and heel plates.It took over two months to make the boot, and we made three prototypes before we were satisfied with the final product. We had to overcome many challenges along the way, such as finding the right balance between fit and style, adjusting the tension and alignment of the seams, ensuring durability and comfort of the sole, and achieving a smooth and shiny finish.We submitted our boot online by sending photos and videos of it from different angles, along with a description of our design choices and techniques. We also shipped our boot to London for physical inspection by the judges. The judges were [names of judges], who are all renowned experts in shoemaking. They evaluated our boot based on four criteria: construction (40%), design (30%), finish (20%), and overall impression (10%).Inside view
Top view
On The Train tracks
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