Sunday, December 6, 2020

Shoe Last making

So it comes to shoe last making I usually choose the wider of the two feet and then I'll do that side first. It's always best to do the wider foot first. If you the reason is that that sets the tone for the narrower foot. Like for instance, when looking at feet sometimes you see that the right foot is slightly wider than the left foot. that's why its best to start with the right one first. However, what is important to remember is do you select the numbers or the shape; to be honest, the shape always wins.

Have you ever had a pair of shoes that were too short? Or a shoe that's conversely too long. The pivot point or a tread point that something that must look at on the shoe lasts, It needs to match it to the foot, and so I find using the Patogragrah print, that will show the tread point, I  hold the paperwork under the last to make sure its a match, it will correspond to the drawing. 

I once read a book by Ferragamo called The Shoemaker of Dreams, I must say He doesn't get enough of a mention in the bespoke world these days as the brand is more of a fashion house. , he created so many systems and techniques with shoe last making and shoes, He brought the industry forward. For me, this is a fascinating part of making footwear is the last making part. The rest of it, is an art form. But once you learn how to do it, you've kind of learned it. But this is the part that you're always digging deeper, with shoemaking it's always a lifetime of learning. You're constantly making sure that is correct. And so the amount of tension that's on foot is decided by what type of foot you have. And everyone has a different kind of foot. It's kinda like when you shake people's hands, some people have flashy hands, some people have firm hands, and the foot is the same way. the foot can be gathered up and they won't feel any tightness.

So, You look at the numbers that you have from your measurements and then you look at the shape, and you try and decide, I've got to take this foot. And my goal is to fit it, but also make a beautiful fit, a beautiful shoe or boot. So when the customer looks at it, they'll just see a glorious shape.

                      This pair was made from scrap crocodile leather that's been left over.

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